Small Hotels

Fingals Hotel, Devon

A duck taking a dip in the swimming pool, a folly in the garden and some eccentric décor are all part of the charm of this quirky former farmhouse.

Richard Johnston was running a restaurant in London when he fell in love with this once dilapidated 17th-century farmhouse in a lush valley next to the River Dart. Now, more than 20 years after he let out his first room, Fingals has established a reputation as a rather quirky place to stay (comedian Vic Reeves affectionately described it as ‘bonkers’). The clock in the bar says ‘Oneish, twoish, threeish’ and you may find the odd duck waddling around the hotel or taking a dip in the swimming pool. The décor is very eclectic, with modern sculptures dotted around the garden, an old-fashioned, working telephone in the bar and a mixture of contemporary and traditional art adorning the walls.

If ever there was a small hotel that’s ideal for a relaxed gathering of family or friends, this is it, largely because Richard already runs it like a country house party, where most guests prefer to eat together round a long farmhouse table in the oak-panelled dining room.

It’s a laid-back kind of place where the good-natured staff make you feel at home as soon as you walk in the door. Don’t expect to check in at a formal reception: room keys are collected at the bar where you can help yourself to drinks and keep your own tab. Breakfast is an equally relaxed affair and only finishes after the last guests have emerged.

Among the 11 bedrooms is a traditional four-poster room (although this isn’t just any bed – it comes from whisky magnate Johnny Walker’s house in Kilmarnock) and a loft-style family room with twin beds on a mezzanine level and Beryl Cook prints. There’s also a brightly painted folly – a tiny mill house with an upstairs lounge, wood-burning stove and balcony overlooking a stream.

Eating is a big part of the Fingals’ experience, where French chef, Eric, rustles up four-course menus with a Gallic flavour.

When you’re not eating or sleeping you could be sitting in front of a roaring fire in the lounge’s original inglenook fireplace or watching a DVD or video on one of the sofas in the mini cinema. There’s also a library, snooker room with table football and ping pong, heated indoor pool, hot tub, sauna and mini-gym (but don’t expect to find the latest state-of-the-art equipment here: the exercise bike looks like an antique).

In fine weather, play croquet on the lawn, have a game of tennis on the grass court or sit and read a book on the decked terrace overlooking the stream.

There’s plenty to do outside the hotel’s grounds, too; Fingals’ idyllic location close to the River Dart is hard to beat. Go sailing, fishing or canoeing on the river (you can even venture out in Fingals’ own rowing boat) or take the ferry from nearby Dittisham to Dartmouth.

Meanwhile, arty, new age Totnes is a 20-minute drive away and there are plenty of sandy beaches within easy reach.